Ermenegildo Zegna Men's RTW Spring 2011
Basking in the success their unity has yielded, second and third generation Zegnas took a bow at the close of the label's powerful centennial show as the audience rose to its feet. Indeed, la famiglia is at the core of Ermenegildo Zegna and its secret to business longevity. The show consisted of the signature line and the fashion-forward Z Zegna label and drew an extended family of industry bigwigs including Domenico De Sole, Robert Polet, Allen Questrom, Burt Tansky, Santo Versace, Armani’s John Hooks and Ferragamo’s Michele Norsa. As if flaunting its men's wear dominance, the house sent out a battalion of models (nearly one for each year the company has been in business) down the runway at La Triennale, where the label is staging its 100 Years of Excellence retrospective. The fashion offer for worldly gents seeking European flair was rich. A textured seersucker suit opened the Ermenegildo Zegna section and set a savvy sartorial tone, while seemingly weightless jackets and linen trousers showed off the house's tailoring talent. Saddle stitching and leather piping on technical outerwear pieces and loosely tied leather belts added an eccentric touch to the ultra-sophisticated wardrobe. The Z Zegna line was introduced with a swift drawing of black curtains from the glass roof of the Triennale room, which caused a near greenhouse effect as temperatures soared inside. Creative director Alessandro Sartori paraded slim-lined, lightweight tailoring in chalky whites, slate grays and brick tones to a driving, techno beat. The collection felt easy and breezy. Jackets – three-button, double-breasted or deconstructed - looked fresh with slim trousers or jeans. Zegna’s reputation for luscious fabrics was on full display throughout, from luscious cashmeres and sleek silks to high-tech mixes incorporating paper or nylon. One hundred years old never looked so good.